The Essential Taco Guide

The following article appeared in The News (Mexico City) on November 29, 1995, and is just a taste of the high esteem given the taco in the Nation's capitol.

TACOS: HEART, SOUL AND STOMACH OF MEXICAN CULTURE (By Albert Scambati, News Staff Reporter)

Climbing up the stairs of almost any of Mexico City's metro stations the very first thing you're likely to encounter is the distinctive aroma from the taco stand stationed right outside the entrance (in some instances accompanied by billowing clouds of smoke).

The next thing that will probably happen as you try to squeeze by the crowds on one side and the stand (where unidentifiable sections of meat are being fried), is a man wiping a big greasy knife on his apron who will start screaming in your ear, "Pasele, pasele guero, Que le damos? Tenemos de suadero, de longaniza, de pastor, de moronga, de buche, de cabeza..."

If you're the type of person who turns up his collar, puts his head down, and continues walking -- maybe its time to think again.

For the taco represents something deeper than just the heart and soul of Mexican culture, it speaks of qualities held in much higher esteem by Mexican society -- namely, its stomach.

How to Choose a Taco Stand

One of the first rules in choosing a place to eat is no different than it would be when electing a restaurant. In fact when checking out a taco stand you are at an advantage because all you need to do is lean over the counter.

There are a few different types of establishments selling tacos. At the basic stand you will see a rotisserie (off to one side) with a pretty hefty hunk of meat (pastor). Somewhere behind the counter there will be the magical taco-frying pan, where the "chef" has piled up all the meats that he will chop up and fry to one side -- an important process as every piece of meat carries the delicate essence of all the meats that have been fried before it. The center of that very same pan will inevitably remind you of the opening scene from Macbeth, as you patiently wait for your taco. At these types of stands, one of the rules of thumb is very basic -- fire. If you don't see the food being cooked, the red glow of the rotisserie grill, or the spattering of oil behind the counter, find somewhere else to eat.

One other word of advice for those of us who are accustomed to meat injected with food coloring. There is usually nothing wrong with gray meat -- the natural color of a dead animal once its had its blood drained. If the meat has a blue tinge to it, don't eat it, and if you still can't resist just make sure you've chosen one of the places right outside Hospital General.

Another type of stand is actually a steam table, and these are a bit more tricky. A variety of delicacies are set out in front of you on hot trays for you to choose from. Does it look fresh, clean? Has someone recommended it to you? Are there many people eating there? If your intuition and your stomach tell you to go ahead, say three Hail Marys and order.

The third type of place, isn't even a place at all, and is probably the most suspicious. Tacos de canasta are pre-made tacos sold from baskets or other receptacles, usually from someone sitting at a table outside a metro station. Although these tacos are very good, you should only buy them from established restaurant-type stands.

Taco Etiquette

Here is where most taco amateurs slip up. When ordering, drop the polite Spanish form you usually use in similar situations and place your order in the imperative.

When your tacos arrive, pick one up, find the middle and fold it over. Then holding your doubled taco from the top of the arc exactly in the middle, you will lean into it...This is very important -- do not bring the taco to your mouth, to do this properly you sort of have to meet it half way. You still have the plastic plate in your left hand (in your right, if you're left handed) and you will be a bit hunched over as you and your taco come together in ecstatic union. If you are wearing a tie either tuck it into your jacket or throw it over your shoulder. Do not leave the plate on the counter, lifting the taco off it to eat! This would be the equivalent of asking for a straw with your beer in a Wyoming bar or not burping in Beijing after the sweet and sour pork. It's just not done.

If you're looking around for napkins and there aren't any, rip one of the little squares of paper (the same ones that the taquero uses to place the taco on) hanging from a wire, to wipe the grease dripping from the corners of your mouth.

Never order one taco. Generally, the unspoken rule is to order in threes or fives. After your consumption has reached double digits, and you've carefully followed all the instructions above, you will have earned the respect of the taquero (and he might even throw in an extra taco).